Belgrade is the capital of Serbian dining: traditional kafanas in Skadarlija, modern bistros in Dorćol and Savamala, riverside spots on the Sava and Danube, and the city’s famous grill. Vetted places across the centre and the river quays.
Belgrade eats all year round. The scene runs from old-school kafanas with live music in cobbled Skadarlija to grill houses (roštilj - ćevapi, pljeskavica), modern bistros and international spots around Dorćol, Vračar and Savamala, plus terraces along the Sava and Danube. Prices climb in the tourist-heavy centre and ease off a few streets out.
Below are our vetted places in Belgrade - kafana classics, grill, wine and cafes. What to order across Serbian cuisine - ćevapi, pljeskavica, sarma, kajmak, local wine and rakija - is in the guide to the cuisine. We verify each venue and note the check date.
The oldest working kafana in Belgrade, in a merchant's house from 1823 by the Cathedral. Dark wood, framed photos and a menu of bean soup, karađorđeva schnitzel and grilled meats built for a long, unhurried meal.
Opening hours: daily 10:00-22:00 (please confirm)
A small-plates restaurant inside Beton Hala on the Sava, built for sharing rather than a starter-main format: uštipci, Ambar-style ćevapi, Karađorđeva schnitzel and a serious wine and rakija-cocktail list.
Opening hours: daily, roughly 10:00-02:00 (please confirm)
A no-frills grill counter on the edge of Skadarlija doing one thing well: 100% beef ćevapi in somun bread with kajmak and ajvar, fast turnover, open past midnight on weekends.
Opening hours: Mon-Thu, Sun 09:00-00:00; Fri-Sat 09:00-03:00 (please confirm)
A fine-dining restaurant in Vračar that plates Serbian classics - steak tartare, sous vide pork neck, a dry-aged T-bone flambéed tableside - with the polish of a big-city tasting menu, close to Karađorđe Park.
Opening hours: daily 11:30-23:00 (please confirm)
A family-run bakery near Slavija Square, open since the early 1900s and still making some of the most-recommended burek in Belgrade - meat and cheese versions cut into squares, best eaten standing up with a cup of yogurt.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 06:00-19:00, Sat 06:00-16:00 (please confirm)
A century-old fish restaurant on the Zemun quay, famous for its own recipe of riblja čorba (river fish soup) alongside grilled river fish and a wider Mediterranean seafood menu, with a proper Danube view from the terrace.
Opening hours: closed Mon; Tue-Wed 15:00-00:00, Thu-Sun 13:00-01:00 (please confirm)
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